Drive in the final screws (12 in this case). Use a tape measure to center each of the remaining two underboards halfway between each end and the center underboard. I painted everything white, distressed and added a little antiquing wax. It was really simple that I forgot to take pictures because it took me literally 4 minutes. When I got home I laid it on the window and attached the brackets. Drill and screw the top boards to the center underboard (Figure 6). It was going on the old window with it’s own imperfections so it would blend in. Check the butted alignment of the two sets of top boards and center the underboard beneath them so that it supports the top boards evenly on each side. Note: If you don't have a butt joint in the middle, you can just repeat the above procedure for the middle of the shelf as well. Repeat the procedure on the opposite end. Pilot drill each board (6 holes in this instance) and then drive in two wood screws to attach each top board to the underboard (6 screws total). Start at one end making sure the edges of the top boards are aligned with the side and front edges of the end underboard. If your wood is hard, you may want to pre-drill and countersink the top boards for the best appearance and to prevent splitting. The wood was fairly soft so no countersinking was needed to drive them flush using a cordless screwdriver, but I did drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws to avoid splitting. This configuration required 30 countersunk wood screws about a 5/8 inches long. To keep construction simple, rip cut the boards as needed to keep the width down, rather than design extra support.įor this project, it worked out that three pallet boards made for a shelf about 11 inches wide. I wouldn't want to go more than 12-14 inches wide without using some additional bracing from the wall underneath to provide added support. As a general rule, the support boards should be 14-18 inches apart.įor a shelf that is somewhere between 9-15 inches wide, you can use three pallet boards placed side by side to form the shelf platform. Or, you may have to use more than five if it is a really long sill. Note: If your window sill is not that long, say 48 inches or less, you can use fewer support boards (three or four) underneath. For good support and a balanced appearance I used five pieces of wood to support the shelf boards. Since my boards were not 57 inches long, I decided to make a joint in the center of the shelf and butt the boards together in the middle. The sill where this shelf was going was 58 inches long (Figure 3), so the shelf was designed to be 57 inches long to allow sufficient clearance on the ends to make installation easy.
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